Contemporary horology is defined primarily by watch construction and materials, since the basic principles of watch mechanics haven’t changed in 200 years. Below are some tips for selecting the right case material when purchasing your next luxury watch.

Metal Cases

Metal is the oldest and most popular material for watch cases. It is simple to machine in multiple shapes and can easily be decorated and polished. Traditionally, steel has been the metal of choice since it offers wear resistance, durability, is affordable and presents a nice polish. Several high end watches use a steel case, the most famous of which is the Royal Oak series by Audemars Piguet.

The next most frequently used metal is titanium. It has the advantage of being lighter than steel, but is also a bit more expensive. Visually, it showcases a darker hue yet is softer and more vulnerable to scratches. Titanium is a state of the art metal used in aerospace and performance cars, and its popularity has grown in recent years.

A production method has recently been developed called Sinn Tegiment, which is a hardening process applied to some titanium or steel watches which will make their surfaces harder and as a result more resistant to scratches. One of the most popular watches to showcase this feature is the U1 dive watch.

Ceramic Cases

Ceramics are advanced materials that require special machines to fabricate and form. Although the material itself is not as costly as gold or platinum, the process needed to produce it is. The majority of ceramic cases contain zirconium oxide, which comes in either black or white tone, and its primary advantage is the color stability, which will prevent it from fading as time passes, and the extremely tough surface, which makes it almost impervious to scratches.

Carbon Fiber Cases

Carbon fiber is a polymer which has been reinforced. It belongs to a family of materials which are carbon based and which a growing number of watchmakers are incorporating into cases. One advantage of carbon fiber is the unique weave, a visual effect which is usually seen in high end furniture and cars. When carbon fiber is correctly manufactured, the end result is exceptionally precise machining along with tremendous strength and light weight.

Gold Cases

This is the oldest material on the list, and it’s stood the test of time for a reason. Gold comes in multiple alloys and is the most famous luxury metal in the world. Although it’s soft compared to steel, it is also heavier and will scratch more readily, but its polish provides far greater luster. White gold has a number of similarities with steel and is often confused with platinum.

18k gold looks best on those with fair skin tones, while pink, rose and red gold look best on darker skin and has become more popular in recent years. Watchmakers such as Patek Philippe have promoted multiple gold alloys for quite some time.