Jewelry Spotlight: Hermes

hermes jewelry
by: Ben Tseytlin - on Antiques & Jewelry

For more than 180 years, Hermes has remained one of the world’s most prestigious jewelry houses, producing merchandise which has been coveted by many. Below is an overview of their design approach and the traits which have given them a popularity which has endured for generations.

Bracelets

Hermes is known for their breathtaking bracelets, one of the most famous of which is the “H.” The H Bracelet utilizes a clasp which is flanked by enamel which is colored. It makes a distinct clicking sound when removed, which has led to collectors calling it the “Clic Clac.” This bracelet comes in three different sizes with one hundred optional enamel colors, along with three precious metals options, which are rose gold, silver and gold. This bracelet is simple yet elegant, a hallmark of Hermes’s design philosophy.

African Jewelry

Hermes was one of the first European jewelry makers to recognize the beauty of African design, and to incorporate it into their products. The company collaborated with a North African tribe known as the Tuareg, who are famous for wearing veils which have a striking blue indigo color. They are also known for their extensive usage of silver and in the 1990s Hermes worked with Tuareg blacksmiths to produce silver jewelry that is unlike anything else seen in the industry. The Tuareg tribal motifs can be seen in many of them.

The Hermes Stamp Code Date System

Another characteristic of Hermes is their usage of a stamp code date system, one which is quite elaborate. Those who purchase Hermes merchandise will notice a stamp which utilizes a group of shapes and letters. These are used to denote where the merchandise was manufactured. For instance, a Hermes handbag which has an E stamp within a circle means that it was manufactured in 1976, and if an R stamp is visible within a square this means the merchandise was produced in 2014.

Hermes was one of the first jewelry makers in the world to develop such a system. The stamps are called blind stamps since they are directly embossed within leather without color, and are made by hand, meaning occasionally they will be faint or uneven. The purpose of this stamp code date system is to combat knock offs and verify the authenticity of the product.

Hermes’s Equestrian Origins

When Hermes was first founded, the goal of the company was to design luxury goods for horses, rather than humans. This is because the patriarch of the company, Thierry Hermes, started his career building horse harnesses in the 1830s, which were used by the nobility. Hermes developed a reputation for his outstanding craftsmanship, and received a number of awards as a result. Eventually he expanded into manufacturing leather bags, saddle bags and golf jackets, and by the 1950s his company entered the jewelry market and was being worn by movie stars, fashion models, athletes and heads of state.