Luxury Watch Spotlight: Breguet

Breguet luxury watch
by: Ben Tseytlin - on Vintage & Luxury Watches

Breguet was founded in 1775 in Switzerland by Abraham Louis Breguet, and over the last two hundred years has distinguished itself with its elegant watches. It has also produced jewelry for women, as well as cufflinks and even writing tools, and today is owned by The Swatch Group.

Origins

Abraham Breguet studied watch manufacturer for about a decade and due to a dowry he received through marriage was able to finance the opening of a workshop. He continued his apprenticeship in watchmaking as well as his studies of mathematics, and became fascinated with the concept of a watch that was self-winding. His work eventually caught the attention of Queen Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI is said to have purchased a few of them. When a request was made from Count Axel Von Fersen for a watch as a gift for Marie Antoinette which used every known complication Breguet responded with the creation of the Marie Antoinette No 160, which is regarded as a masterpiece.

Design Characteristics

The classical Breguet watches are known for their Grande complications, particularly their round pieces, and typically required lugs which were soldered along with case bands.  Their Marine watches are prized for their resistance to liquids, and are noted by their crown guards. The Heritage collection features cases which have a tonneau shape, while their La Tradition watches are open faced, displaying movement in front with a face that is small. There are also the sports chronograph watches, denoted with Roman numerals such as XX or XXII, which are based on the watches used by pilots in World War 2.

The newest, most expensive Breguet watches may be crafted with rose gold that is 18 carat, and can have a diameter of 39 millimeters. Contemporary watches also make use of the Breguet caliber automated movement (519F). Movements use power reserves extensively, which can last as long as forty hours, and which will resist water up to a depth of thirty meters. Even the casebacks are exceptional, often being constructed of rare materials such as sapphire.

Breguet watches are instantly recognizable by their dials, which offer a perfect balance between modernity and tradition. The dials are also functional, while being pleasing to the eye. The watchmaker uses a special design technique which is referred to as grand feu enamel, which is a form of decoration utilizes a set color range which are pained into glaze which is raw and then fired to produce imagery that is strikingly clear and legible. Although the dials tend to be complex, they are easy to read.  The GMT Marine watches are designed for those that travel regularly and are self-winding with a dial for different time zones. They will often be encased in with rose gold and sometimes stainless steel and the dial itself may consist of materials such as rhodium. Overall, Breguet watches are some of the most fabulous time pieces available on the market today, typically costing tens of thousands to acquire.