Luxury Watch Spotlight: Chanel

Chanel
by: Ben Tseytlin - on Vintage & Luxury Watches

While Chanel is primarily known for their cosmetics, they also have a distinguished history in watchmaking. Their timepieces showcase French design in a manner that few brands can, particularly with their famous motif. Of all the watches produced by Chanel, its most iconic is the J12, which has become one of the most coveted timepieces among watch collection enthusiasts.

Origin of Chanel Watches

Compared to its Swiss counterparts, Chanel is a newcomer to the watchmaking industry, having introduced its first watch collection in 1987. By contrast, many Swiss watchmakers entered the business over one hundred years earlier, which led many to question the wisdom of Chanel attempting to encroach on a market that had been Swiss dominated for years. However, the unique design showcased by Chanel’s PREMIER watch was an instant hit, and was inspired by the Place Vendome square of central Paris. The PREMIER watch showcased a French urban style with corners that were clipped; giving it an octagonal appearance which was a departure from the circle or square shape that had been used in most watches for years.

The success of the PREMIER encouraged the company to open its very first boutique for watches in the Montaigne district of Paris, and during the 1980s and 90s the company would go on to acquire the Swiss firm C&F Chatelain. This allowed Chanel to merge its renowned fashion and style with Swiss watchmaking ingenuity, and by 1997 the company opened another boutique at Place Vendome in Paris.

The J12

While the PREMIER opened the door for Chanel’s entry into watchmaking, it was the J12 that cemented their success. It was released in the year 2000, and sported a completely black that was sporty, yet sleek, and was critically acclaimed by both Chanel fans and industry insiders alike. One of the most innovative characteristics of the J12 collection is its incorporation of ceramicand titanium as its main material, which was unheard of in the watchmaking industry at the time. The J12 was a huge success, ultimately surpassing the PREMIER and becoming a true commercial sensation. By 2003 the company decided to release a version which was completely white, rather than black like the original.

Chanel continued refining the J12, and by 2005 released the Tourbillion. This marked the first time that the brand released a watch with an advanced complication, which in the watchmaking business is considered to be the highest echelon possible. Today the J12 adorns the wrists of celebrities and has received a number of accolades. While the brand has commonly been associated with producing women’s wear, its watches are produced for both men and women, the newest of which incorporate a vertical crown that is retractable. Within the span of about four decades Chanel has cemented itself as a major player in the watchmaking industry, with distinct timepieces built with world class materials.